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Elbrus Traverse from South to North (10 days)

Climbing Elbrus via its North side gives you a good impression of the beautiful and wild nature of the Caucasian mountains. Until today there is almost no touristic infrastructure, and your climb will be a real adventure.

On the South-North traverse we will ascend via the normal route from the South, which offers accomodation in comfortable hotels and basic mountaineering camps. It is possible to use lifts up to the camp and a snow cat to get to Pastukhov Rocks (4600 m) on summit day.

Best time: mid May - Mid September

Dates 2020:






from EUR 1200

See our equipment list for this program.

DayProgram breakdown
1Travel to Mineralnye Vody and AzauAfter your arrival in Mineralnye Vody, we will meet you at the airport and transfer you to Azau. The ride takes approximately 3-4 hours. You will stay overnight in our hotel in the valley at 2400 m.
2Acclimatization hike to Peak TerskolToday we will take a local transfer to Terskol village at 2100 m. From here we will hike up to Peak Terskol 3400 m, where we will rest for some hour and take lunch. After coming down, we will go back to our hotel, where you will stay overnight again.
3Hike to Prijut HutAfter breakfast, we leave the hotel for a few days and take a lift ride up to 3700 m. Here is our small, comfortable mountaineering camp. After having had some lunch, we take a walk to Prijut-11 hut (Diesel hut) at 4100 m. Overnight in the camp.
4Acclimatization hike to Pastukhov RocksAfter an early breakfast, we leave our camp at around 6 a.m. for an acclimatization hike up to Pastukhov Rocks (4600 m). After coming back down to the camp, we will have lunch, then rest until dinner.
5Rest dayToday we will provide you some technical training: use of crampons, ice-axe, self-arrest, rope techniques. In the afternoon you will have time to relax, which will give you power for an extra push on summit day. We will have an early dinner, as we will have to get up early for the summit. Overnight at the camp at 3700 m.
6Summit day and descent to the North sideOn a normal summit day, we will have breakfast at 1 a.m. and leave at 2 a.m. It is possible to take the snowcat up to Pastukhov Rocks which makes the ascent 3-4 hours shorter (1000 vertical meters). This is an extra service, which can be booked in advance or on spot. Time to the saddle 6-8 hours, here we deposit our back packs, and continue our climb up to the West summit of Elbrus (5642 m), which will take us another 1-2 hours. After returning back to the saddle, we take our bags and descend along the Lenz Rocks to the North camp at 3700 m. It will take us about 4-5 hours to get there. Overnight in camp at 3700 m (in tents or simple huts).
7Reserve day or descent to DzhylysuThis day may serve us as a reserve day, in case we could not climb the summit due to bad weather yesterday. If we follow the normal schedule, we will descend to the mineral springs at Dzhylysu, where we can take a bath and drink some of the natural sparkling volcanic water. Overnight in tents or simple huts in camp at 2600 m.
8Drive to PyatigorskAround noon, our driver will pick us up at the end of the road near the mineral water springs and bring us to our hotel in Pyatigorsk, where we will stay overnight in our hotel.
9Sightseeing in PyatigorskAfter breakfast, we have the whole day for exploring this charming small spa town. In the historical center, near our hotel, you find lots of little old houses from zar times. There is a big Lenin statue right near the hotel as well. And a visit to an old monastery near Mt. Beshtau gives you great insides into orthodox philosophy. All in all, here you can see Russia cross the centuries, and you feel like walking in a museum. There a lots of nice little cafes and restaurants where you can chill-out in the evening.
10Departure to Mineralnye VodyIn the morning, our driver will bring you to the airport in Mineralnye Vody for your flight back home.
11 August 2009